Identification

The first thing to know about these cars is revealed in the various codes used to identify the year, model and specific features. The first place to look for that information is on the firewall identification tag, located just above the steering column. That tag looks like this:

This tag contains several key items of information about your vehicle. The first two digits of the Style Number indicate the year of the car; the third and fourth the series (two series were made in 1936: 26 for sixes, 28 for Eights); and the fifth and sixth the model. If an “A” follows the model number, the car was a Master Six. If followed by a B, it had bucket seats.

Body Numbers were not necessarily stamped consecutively for each model, so that number doesn’t really tell you much. Bodies were built at the adjacent Fisher Body Service Division of General Motors plant, including paint and interior (except dash instruments), and body tags applied there. They were sent across the railroad tracks to the assembly plant and stored on the 2^nd floor until needed on the line. Other body panels were added (and painted) there, which could create problems, especially with metallic paints that might not match exactly.

The Trim and Paint Number tell what interior was used and the original color of the car. If a "V" is stamped to the right of the paint or trim number, the car was equipped with an optional right hand sun visor. If a "D" follows the Paint Number, the car had Duco paint on the fenders. If a "W" is stamped on the tag, it was a six-wheel model (equipped with side well fenders).

Mistakes were made that resulted in the wrong tag being applied to a car. For example, Bob has a 36-2667A tag taken from a Cabriolet. The tag indicates it should be a Master, but it was actually a DeLuxe Eight.

The Vehicle Identification Number is located attached to your frame just in front of the steering box. The first three characters identify the line: 6BB is a Master Six; 6BA a DeLuxe Six; and 8BA a DeLuxe Eight. The numerical digits are the number of the frame. They run consecutively beginning with – we think – #0001. If your number is 6BB 8494, you have the 8,494th Master Silver Streak produced.

Interior Codes

The Trim No. indicated which interior the car has. Interiors varied by style, as follows:

Master Six
31	Taupe Plain Plush
34	Tan Pattern Cloth
35	Brown Bedford Cord
36	Tan Leather (conv.)
38	Tan Leather (closed)
DeLuxe Six
30	Taupe Plush
33	Tan Pattern Cloth
36	Tan Leather (conv.)
37	Tan Leather (closed)
Deluxe Eight
30	Taupe Plush
32	Tan Pin Stripe Cloth
36	Tan Leather (conv.)
37	Tan Leather (closed)

Body

ontiac shared the same bodies used by Oldsmobile, Buick (40 Series) and some Chevrolet models, although fenders, running boards and hood styling were different among the three nameplates. Reportedly, the only interchangeable parts are the rear fenders from a '36 Olds. The tail lamp mounting holes and the fender brace are different, but it can be made to fit if no other replacement is available. Otherwise, no other body panels can be substituted from other GM makes.

Since the wheelbase of the DeLuxe Eights was four inches longer than the sixes (116" vs. 112"), the front fenders and hood on the eights are also four inches longer. If you're looking for replacement fenders or hood panels, be sure you specify which series you need since they are not interchangeable.

The literature says that the six-wheel configuration was available on the Eights and the DeLuxe Six coupes and cabriolets, although a Master Six 4—door touring sedan in GM’s collection has the 6-wheel option, probably incorrectly? These cars came equipped with two sidewell fenders and are extremely rare today.

Style Codes, Base Price
Master Silver Streak - 93,475 built
Business Coupe	36-2607A	$615
Sport Coupe	36-2657A	$675
Cabriolet	36-2667A	$760
2 Door Sedan	36-2601A	$675
2 Door Touring Sedan	36-2611A	$700
4 Door Sedan	36-2609A	$720
4 Door Touring Sedan	36-2619A	$745
DeLuxe Silver Streak - 44,040 built
Business Coupe	36-2607	$670
Sport Coupe	36-2657	$725
Cabriolet	36-2667	$810
2 Door Sedan	36-2601	$720
2 Door Touring Sedan	36-2611	$745
4 Door Sedan	36-2609	$770
4 Door Touring Sedan	36-2619	$795
DeLuxe Eight Silver Streak - 38,755 built
Business Coupe	36-2807	$730
Sport Coupe	36-2657	$785
Cabriolet	36-2667	$855
2 Door Sedan	36-2801	$770
2 Door Touring Sedan	36-2611	$795
4 Door Sedan	36-2609	$815
4 Door Touring Sedan	36-2819	$840

New old stock (NOS) or good used runningboards are very difficult to find (as is most sheet metal), nor does anyone make replacements. Precision Rubber will make new ones however.

Rust

If your car has or is going to rust, it most likely will do so in two places. First, low on the front cowl, where the front fenders mount to the body. This is a notorious spot for rust, so treat it well to prevent further deterioration. The other likely place is under the rear wheel wells. If advanced, this will spread to the floor pan and rear quarter panels. Other places to watch out for are the mounting points for the rear fender braces, the upper sections of the front fender braces, and the front edge of the trunk on coupes.

Wood is used extensively in the doors, floor, seats and rear underside of the frame. Treat dry wood with linseed oil, then paint it to keep it in good condition. If the wood is completely rotted, save all you can to use as a model. There are people who can make new wooden parts if they have a pattern.

Early & Late Style Differences

A major difference between early and late production cars is found in the tail lamps. Early production cars were made with the 1935 oval (teardrop) shaped tail lamps. These were changed to round lamps later in the year. We have no idea exactly when this change was made. Another difference seems to be in the horn button. Early versions were plain black; later, Pontiac script was added to the center. Early cars often had crackle green 1934-35 heaters; later cars brown Model 52 heaters. Early mirror watches were round; later versions were square. There were probably other small differences we have not yet noticed.

Late style round tail lamp.

Paint

Pontiacs were available in fourteen different colors, each with a complementing pin stripe. Three colors, Dusky Gray, Sand Dune Cream and Denmark Metallic Blue were special colors and cost an extra $20. In southern and Pacific coast regions, Denmark Metallic Blue was standard and Wenonah Maroon special.

Arno (Pontiac) Blue and Wenonah Maroon came with black fenders; if you wanted the fenders body color, the cost was $10 extra. If Duco, rather than enamel fenders were desired with any color, the cost was an extra $10.

Perugia Blue and Argent (silver) are still available from Ditzler. The paint numbers are 32672 and 13477 respectively. A fifteenth color, Flame Capucine, was used on fleet vehicles, (presumably taxis) and as an accent color on Martini Brown cars. This color is also still available from Ditzler (#60636), now called Mexican Orange.

The dash color is Beaver Brown. The same color was used as an exterior paint in 1940 Cadillacs and very similar to Martini Brown. A classic car paint supplier should have that mix, such as Color-Ite in Bethany, CT (203) 393-0240.

Striping was 7/32” in width. It ran along the body molding on the side of the vehicle, starting and ending 3/8” from the end of the molding. Each end is pointed, with the point 1” in length. The grill side vents were also pinstriped. The first stripe was on the third louver from the top, then repeated on every fifth louver. With some colors, the beltline molding was painted an accent color as well. For example, Martini Brown car had a dark brown molding stripe and a Flame Capucine stripe.

A starburst pattern was also painted on the wheels just outside of the hubcap. Again, the color depended on the body color. Some wheels apparently had pinstriped starbursts. A stencil was used to paint this pattern on the wheels after they were sprayed with the body color. A complete summary of the colors available is included in the accompanying table.

Other Stuff

Each car came equipped with a screw jack, jack handle, tool kit and crank. To use the crank, the Indian Head medallion must be removed from the bumper and the chrome crank hole cover from the grill, but it was just the ticket when caught with a dead battery!

One annoying design defect was the length of the headlights. The rear of the lamp cones extends beyond the front of the hood panels. Consequently, most are scraped or dented from repeated and careless lifting of the hood.

The hood lacing used on the firewall cowl was five-eights inches in width with a wire running through its middle. Wire lacing of this size is no longer available (at least we've never seen any). It can be replaced with wider wire lacing or the original size without the wire can be had and cemented in place.

Hood corner pads provide important protection to the paint when the hood is in the raised position. Front corner pads are available from Lynn Steele (as are most other rubber parts, including weather seal), but rear pads are not being reproduced. Non-standard replacements can be made, or you can use a rubber pad to place under the corner when the hood is up.

The spring steel bumpers were the same for both '35 and '36. If you have them rechromed, it is a good idea to spray the rear side with a clear sealer to prevent future rusting. The three lines in the bumper are painted black. The dot on the side of the Indian Head hood ornament used on the sixes is the same color. Treat these hood ornaments with special care: the chrome ring around them is rather fragile. The "8" hood ornament is a different design.

Original wiper arms are very difficult items to find, but universal replacement arms are readily available. The bases of these replacements can be ground down to match the original arm. When in the "off" position, the wiper arms point to the outside of the windshield.

The chrome strip used in the window divider is a generic GM item. Reproductions are available from Bob’s Automobilia. Steele Rubber has window channel and gaskets.

There is no standard outside rear view mirror. No such mirror came with the car, but these were common after market items. Almost anyone you choose could be considered "original." The radio antenna mounted under the running boards.

Factory Accessories

Here are the factory accessories available for the '36 Pontiac when new:

Item	Price
Electric Clock	11.50
Mirror Watch	4.00
Visor Vanity Mirror	1.00
Ash Receiver	1.25
Cigar Lighter	1.50
Gear Shift Ball	.50
Right Hand Visor	2.25
Right Hand Tail Lamp	4.00
Dual Horns	9.50
Standard Heater	11.95
Deluxe Heater	16.75
Master Radio	49.50
Deluxe Radio	60.50
Safety (Spot) Light	15.95
Luggage Compartment Lamp	2.25
Luggage Compartment Mat	1.75
Insect Screens	1.50
Fender Markers	1.25
License Plate Frames	2.95
Battery Charger w/receptacle	8.70
Defroster Fan w/bracket	4.50
Seat Covers	4.90
Wheel Trim Rings (set of 5)	8.50
Steel Wheel Discs (set of 4)	8.95
Group "D" included the dual horns, right hand tail lamp, and right hand visor.
Group "X" included the mirror watch, visor vanity mirror, ash receiver, cigar lighter, and gear shift ball.
Group "Y" was the same as Group "X" except the clock was substituted for the mirror watch.

Body-Fender-Wheel-Color Combinations
Paint Number	Body	Fenders Regular Optional			Molding	Stripe	Wheels	Wheel Stripe
16	Black	Black			Black	Argent Silver	Black	Argent
17	Weynonah Maroon	Black	Maroon		Maroon	Carteret Red	Maroon	Carteret Red
18	Perugia (Pontiac) Blue	Black	Blue		Blue	Carteret Red	Blue	Carteret Red
19	Maple Leaf Green	Black			Black	Tacoma Cream	Green	Tacoma Cream
20	Harbormist Gray	Gray			Venetian Blue	Argent Silver	Blue	Argent
21	Martini Brown	Brown			Caramel brown	Flame Capucine	Caramel Brown	Flame Capucine
Special Colors ($20 extra)
22	Sand Dune Cream	Cream		Cream		Black	Cream	Black
24	Dusty Gray	Gray		Black		Aurora Red	Gray	Black
25	Denmark Blue Metallic	Metalllic Blue		Metalllic Blue		Cheruit Vermillion	Metalllic Blue	Cheruit Vermillion
New Colors Introduced Later in the Model Year
26	Silver Streak Gray Metallic	S.S. Gray Metallic		S.S. Gray Metallic		Carteret Red	Gray Metallic	Gray Metallic
27	Neptune Green	Neptune Green		Neptune Green		Lime Yellow	Neptune Green	Neptune Green
28	Caribbean Blue Metallic	Blue Metallic		Blue Metallic		Aluminum	Blue Metallic	Blue Metallic
29	Sante Fe Beige	Beige		Beige		Aurora Red	Beige	Beige or Red
30	Arno Blue	Blue		Blue		Lime Yellow	Blue	Blue

Mechanical

Pontiac automobiles for 1936 were very similar to the 1935 models. 1935 was the year hydraulic brakes, the solid steel "turret" top and the soon to be famous "Silver Streak" hood chrome were first introduced. The same body was used in 1936, but a change was made from front opening, "suicide" doors to rear opening doors. The mechanical components are much the same and can often be interchanged, but the fenders, hood and other sheetmetal are entirely different.

Nineteen different models were offered in six different body styles, with essentially three variables. Six cylinder cars were either Master or Deluxe models. Eights were always Deluxes. The various models are listed in the adjacent chart.

The Deluxe Sixes and Eights were distinguished from the Master Sixes by a variety of things, most of which are not obvious at first glance. All masters had front leaf springs; DeLuxes had "knee action" hydraulic front suspensions and rear sway bars. The interiors of the Deluxes were also different. Instrument and door knobs were a patterned brown color rather than black; decorative sill plates were used; and the dome light was operated from a door post switch. All windows had safety glass. Finally, the hood ornaments differed between "6" and "8"; the six is an Indian Head, the "8" a circle with an arrow. A list of the available factory options and their prices is included on page 4. A customer paid extra for such things as an ash tray, right hand sun visor and heater. The most distinctive option was the side well fenders in which spare tires were mounted. These are very rare items today.

Engines

The "6" cylinder engine, with 208 cubic inch displacement, developed 81 horsepower. The 232.3 cubic inch "8" (billed immodestly as the "The Smoothest Eight in the World") had 87 hp. Both ran well on regular gas of the day – 68 octane. It's been said that during the war, once started with gasoline, they could be run on kerosene.

Early production "6" engine blocks had four frost plugs on the distributor side while later models had only two. Early versions also had narrower ridges in the top of the head than later versions. The date of manufacture of your engine can be determined from numbers stamped low on the block just in front of the starter (you may need a mirror to read them). The number will read something like GM •J 22 5. "J" tells you it was made in July (A is January); "22" is the day; and "5" means in the year 1935.

The color of the engine, oil pan, oil pump, water pump and bell housing were green. Other components, including the air cleaner, oil breather, starter, generator and manifolds, were black. The cast Indian head was red.

If you take your engine apart, be very careful to center the front oil seal and timing gear cover when reassembling. There was a special tool made for this purpose, but now you've got to eyeball it. If it isn't centered, you'll blow oil out of the front end. (A wrong sized fan belt might also cause this problem. Poor air circulation into the filler tube may result in higher than normal crankcase pressure, forcing oil out the front end.)

Vapor lock can also be a problem due to the close proximity of the fuel line to the manifolds, especially with modern unleaded gas. It has a much lower boiling point that the old fashioned lead gas it was designed to run on. A strong fuel pump usually eliminates this problem, but an old time solution is to wrap tin foil around the line to act as an insulator. A more drastic solution is to have a 1” block machined to fit between carburetor and intake manifold. By raising the carburetor above the hot manifold, the chances of vapor lock are reduced. Insulating the gas line where it runs under the radiator is also a good idea.

If your car shows symptoms of vapor lock, by stalling out on the highway, then restarting after cooling down before quitting again, the metal sleeve that fits inside the intake manifold (just below the carburetor) may be rusted out. Replace it and the problem disappears.

When Andy rebuild his "6", he wanted to replace the dirty felt inside of the valve covers. He had a machine shop separate the cover and found the felt used in cold weather boots to be a perfect replacement. The felt only deadens valve noise, so this isn’t critical.

Almost all engine parts can be readily found from old parts vendors, at flea markets and maybe best of all, on eBay. A parts book and interchange manual help with this task.

Cooling System

The problem these cars are most known for is overheating. The water distribution tubes were originally made of steel and were wont to rust out. The replacement tubes are brass, eliminating the problem. If you haven't had this problem, you certainly will unless the original tube has been replaced with a brass one. The use of rust inhibitor is, of course, a good idea. Replacing the tube requires removal of the entire front end assembly. This isn't particularly difficult, but is time consuming and you risk paint damage. However, once removed, engine work is very easy to do.

The radiators on the "6" and "8" are slightly different. The "8" is one-eighth inch thicker than the "6" to increase its cooling capacity. If necessary, a Six radiator can be used in an Eight, but not vice-versa. It is very hard to find new old stock radiators, but they can be recored. They can also be pressurized (3-4 lbs) by changing the neck to fit a modern radiator cap. That helps prevent overheating. The “8” came pressurized.

The thermostat mounts into the water inlet gooseneck with a ring. These rings often rust out, allowing water by-pass the thermostat and thus defeating their purpose.

Frost (casting) plugs can also weaken with age and give out at inopportune moments. There is a frost plug at the very end of the block, invisible from the side of the engine. To get to it, the toeboards must be removed.
Clutch

Clutch chatter is a common problem that can have a myriad of causes. The obvious one is a worn clutch disk. It's fairly easy to remove the transmission and clutch to replace a disk. While you're in there, be sure to have your flywheel turned down to provide a smooth surface for the disk. If the teeth on your ring gear have been chewed up by the starter bendix, it should be replaced or at least reversed on the flywheel (so should the bendix).

If you find oil or grease on the disk, it may be leaking from either the transmission or oil pan when parked on a hill. Solve that problem by staying on level ground!

Check the throwout bearing for wear. There are two grooves on either side of the hole for the transmission spline. If the grooves are worn almost flat, it's time for a replacement. This bearing can also be oiled through an access panel at the top of the flywheel (remove toeboards to get at it).

The pressure plate will cause trouble if the springs are weak or worn. These are very difficult to adjust yourself and even so-called experts may not get them right. You can test for problems by laying the place face down on a level surface, laying a straight edge across the floating plate, and measure the distance from surface to edge in many directions. If you get a variety of measurements, you've got problems.

If you've done your clutch from A-Z and still get chatter, check you rear spring shackles. Worn shackles can cause chatter too.

Transmission, Rear End

Three different rear ends were used, depending on the area of the country in which the car was sold. The type of rear end in your car can be determined by the color of the paint on the end of the rear axle. If yellow, it has a Plains rear end and a high gear ratio. These will give you the greatest highway speeds. If blue, its a Mountain gear ratio, great for up hills, but tough to get over 45 MPH. If green, you have the average ratio rear end.

The three speed transmission is the only one mentioned in any of the books, but we've see a 2807 with a four speed. We assume it came from the factory that way. It may have been a GMC transmission. Again, not every car seems to fit the factory specs.

When reassembling the transmission and drive shaft, be sure to grease the U-joint housing before bolting it in and don't tighten it too tight. Also avoid the use of strong gasket sealer, such as the silicon variety. Bob learned the hard way that this housing must flex. His cracked because it was too rigid.

The beveled cork gasket that fits inside this housing can be replaced with O-ring material available from a bearing shop. Cut it to fit and glue it with a special (and expensive) cement made for that purpose.

Finally, be sure you fill the U-joint housing with gear oil through the speedometer gear hole after assembly.

Front End Safety

The original tie rod ends are the “ball and socket” type. The balls are pressed into the steering arms, and then fit into the socket on the tie rod end. This is a hazardous arrangement on a car with a lot of miles on it. The balls wear (anything more than 0.005” out of round is too much wear), then can bind up or even fall out of the sockets. Neither is a good thing when driving down the highway! At a minimum, be sure your socket balls are within the safety tolerance, then tighten up the socket assemblies to ensure a good fit and lubricate well.

Better yet replace the whole assembly with a modern bolt-style tie rod end. These ends are easily obtainable as after-market parts. Remove the steering arms, have a machine shop press out the ball assemblies and press in the new tie rod end. Secure with bolts, mount to the steering (tie) rod and adjust to get the proper front end alignment.

The drag link mounts the same way. The ball on the drag link arms don’t wear as much, but if worn can be replaced using tie rod ends to make the connection.
Cabriolet Information

Here are some things Bob has learned about his Cabriolet.

• The top assembly and vent and door windows are the same for all 1935-36 General Motors cars, including Chevrolet, Oldsmoble, Buick, LaSalle, and Series 60 Cadillac. The sun visors, vent window and rear view mirror are also the same on a 1937 Buick convertible sedan.

• The original back window was oval in shape. At least factory photos show it that way. No one is reproducing oval frames, so a rectangular frame can be substituted.

• The vent window assembly is completely different in the Cabriolets than in closed cars, except for the cranking mechanism. So too is the door glass.

• The sun visors are attached to the header rail and go down with the top. They are completely different than closed car visors and probably impossible to find should you need them.

• Steele Rubber carries all the rubber top and window weather stripping.

• Bill Hirsch in Newark, NJ, carries an excellent replacement top kit. Hampden Coach in Amesbury has NORS rectangular rear window frames and original uphostery material.

• Rumbleseat step pads (upper and lower) were the same 1935-1938. Steele has the lower pad, but not the upper.

1936 Cabriolet Windshield Detail
Literature

All cars came with two manuals, an Owner's Manual and an Operator's Manual. Both fit in the glove box and provided detailed information about the vehicle. Also available were a shop manual and a body repair manual. Another good source of information is the numerous Service Bulletins sent to dealers during the model year. These alerted the Service Department to common problems being experienced by owners and their solution. Finally, sales brochures, paint charts, a parts book, advertisements, and various other pieces of supplemental literature are available through literature vendors to help round out the documentation of your vehicle. Many of these can be found on on-line auction sites, such as eBay. [Note: the quality of reprints is often noticeably less than originals.]

Canadian built cars

1936 Pontiacs were also built in Oshwa, Walkerville, or Regina, Canada. Series numbers were different: Series 27 for the Sixes, Series 29 for Eights. Otherwise, they seem to be identical to US built cars, although paint and trim codes were also different. Here’s a nice original Canadian built Master Six 4-dr touring sedan (2719) owned by Richard Houlston of Mirimachi, New Brunswick.

Australian built cars

About 1,500 1936 Pontiacs, all sedans, were built in Australia by Holden. These cars had some significant differences from the US models. Here is a 4-dr touring sedan owned by Ron Taylor in New South Wales. Notice the front suicide door and different trunk. The bumpers are also different.

Other Stuff of Interest:

Ø When replacing the engine, it will lift out and go back more easily with the starter removed (transmission attached). Install the engine side pans beforehand; otherwise they are difficult to get in, especially on the RH side.

Ø Torque specs:

o Head bolts: 60 lbs

o Main bearing caps: 80-90 lbs

o Rod caps: 45-50 lbs

Ø Don’t start the engine by pouring gas down the carb – it washes away the lubricant and will crack the rings on a new engine. Instead, crank the starter with the key off to build up oil pressure, then fill the bowl with gas if the pump is not drawing sufficiently.

Ø Start a new engine with plain water and Stop-Leak in the cooling system. Note any leaks. Once they are sealed, replace with normal coolant.

Ø Make sure all drive train bolts and fittings are tight before putting back the floorboards or front clip.

Ø Retorque head, exhaust and oil pan bolts after the engine has run hot.

Ø Don’t lubricate the water pump with chassis grease. Always use water pump grease; the other will cause the seal to leak.

Ø To do a pretty accurate front-end alignment, scribe each tire by rotating it against a sharp object for a full circle, then measure the distance between scribe lines front and rear. When they are the same, it's aligned, or at least the toe in is. Since camber is in the axle, that's less likely to be off.

Ø End Notes

The authors are both devoted owners of 1936 Pontiacs and have had extensive experience with their restoration and operation. Actually, "devoted" may be too mild a term: other people in our lives might use the word compulsive. Be that as it may, we both love these automobiles and have managed to collect quite a lot of information about them. The intent of this booklet is to share that information with others who may be interested in what we have learned.

How did someone in Maine meet another Pontiac owner in Michigan (now living in South Carolina)? It happened in 1983 when Bob was searching for the formula for dashboard paint. The Pontiac-Oakland Club International Advisor didn't have it, but it he referred him to Andy. As it turned out, he didn't either, but we discovered we both had a strong interest in the same car. We've since met several times and, working together, have found out much about these interesting vehicles.

In our many discussions about '36 Pontiacs, we've often remarked "someone ought to write that down" whenever a particularly interesting or arcane piece of information came up. We finally took our own advice and put this collection of fact, opinion and experience together. If you also own a '36, we hope it is helpful in extending your understanding of your car. Our goal is to help keep as many '36s on the road as possible.

Bob has owned his 2607A business coupe since buying it as a high school senior in 1965. His is a classic "saw it in someone's backyard" story. All it took was a check for $75 and the coupe (with 68,500 original miles) became his first car. It survived high school, college, two kids and several moves and now has 98,000 on the odometer. He learned most of what he knows it by doing a mostly ground-up restoration in 1981-83. He bought his Master Six cabriolet in 2002 after finding it on eBay and has restored it from the ground up. It is the most complete, original 1936 Cabriolet known.

Andy has two business coupes on the road, and another coupe that isn’t running. One coupe is a former Michigan State Police car; the other, A Deluxe model, was in the film The Color Purple. He is a veritable encyclopedia of '36 Pontiac knowledge and much of what is contained in this booklet is a result of his research and experience.

We hope you find this attempt at documenting the idiosyncrasies of this automobile interesting. If you have any information that we've missed (and not published in the usual manuals), please let us know about it. If you catch any errors, let us know about those too.

Finally, special thanks to Arno Schoeb and Frank Bennett, two other '36 owners who helped check the accuracy of our work.

Most of all, if you're in our area (with or without your car), look us up and let's talk Pontiacs.

Bob Shafto

451 Blackstrap Road

Falmouth, ME 04105

(207) 878-8933

rgshafto@maine.rr.com

Andy Lee

1203 McKelvey Road

Fountain Inn, SC 29644

(864) 243-2619

L8Virgin@aol.com

1988

Rev. 2006

Identification

Master Six

DeLuxe Six

Deluxe Eight

Body

Style Codes, Base Price

Master Silver Streak - 93,475 built

DeLuxe Silver Streak - 44,040 built

DeLuxe Eight Silver Streak - 38,755 built